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Maintenance Tips

Water Clarity and Overall Pool Health

Circulation means water movement throughout the entirety of the pool. Water should be moving in all corners and recessed areas. If you see debris continuing to build up in certain same locations then those “dead zones” are not being circulated.


Filtration means water being moved through the pleats of your filter (or sand or DE). It needs to be
sufficient to ensure a turnover rate of 1.5 to 2 times per day. Meaning that the entire volume of your pool
needs to go through the filter 1.5 to 2 times each day.

Chemical balance means that all chemical parameters are within specification for that specific type of pool. If all chems are in balance but the pH is out, the pool is NOT balanced. If all is ok except the alkalinity, the pool is NOT balanced. ALL chemicals must be in range for a pool to be balanced.


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Water Testing

We recommend testing at least weekly using liquid reagents. Test strips will suffice but are not nearly as accurate as liquid titration tests (we recommend Taylor brand kits). It’s not a bad idea to have your water tested by an independent pool store to verify your results periodically. Water testing is vital in protecting the pool finish, equipment as well as bathers.

Equipment Care

All pools have at least a pump and a filter. Most have other features like salt systems, heaters, automation, ozone systems, blowers, diverter valves, lights, auto fill systems, and more. This equipment sits out in the Florida elements 24 hrs a day, much of it running 8 or more hours a day. We recommend following all manufacturers recommended maintenance programs, especially on all electrical components. Now days you can find equipment manuals online so you should spend some time reviewing them for your particular equipment.

One of the easiest and yet most effective ways of helping your pool pump is by keeping the water level at the proper height and the skimmer and pump baskets empty. Debris in these baskets prevent or reduce water flow and causes your pump to struggle.

Chemical usage and storage

Store chemicals out of direct sunlight. Keep them in a cool, shaded area away from pets and children. Most all pool chemicals are toxic so store accordingly. Always follow label instructions for adding chemicals. When making several additions of different chemicals it’s best not to add them in the same location, right on top each other. If your pool is vinyl or fiberglass take even more care when adding chemicals. Many can (and should) be diluted first prior to adding, but follow label instructions as some are not intended to be blended prior to adding.

Filter maintenance

Your filter is like your pool’s liver or kidney in that its designed to remove impurities from the water. Most pools have cartridge filters which filter’s particles down to 10 microns. Sand filters are effective down to only 30 microns. DE filters are effective down to 3-5 microns. Cartridge filters should be cleaned at least monthly, more often if you’re battling algae or a lot of debris. Same with sand and cartridge filters, clean them at least monthly. You should completely empty and recharge your DE filter at least twice annually, more often is better. And replace sand between 3-5 years.

Another reason to keep your filter clean is pump back pressure. A clogged filter causes back pressure on the pump and will contribute to early failure.

Salt systems

Salt systems generate chlorine for your pool. The water is still sanitized by chlorine (salt is not a sanitizer)
but that chlorine is created right inside the cell so you never have to add it via liquid or tablets. These come is a wide variety of styles and configurations but all require similar maintenance. Follow your manufacturers instructions for cell care if they differ from what is described here. Clean cells of heavy debris using a soft brush or very slim piece of wood or plastic (NEVER METAL) or preferably a stream of water from a pressurized hose nozzle. After that, use a 20% blend of muriatic acid and water (1 part acid to 5 part water). Block one end of the cell (we sell stands just for this) or use a small bucket and pour the water/acid solution into the cell and allow it to work. You’ll see it gassing as it removes calcium buildup. When the gassing stops pour off the solution and do it again with a fresh pour of acid/water. If it gasses again allow it to finish, then repeat the process yet again until a fresh pour doesn’t generate any gassing. The reason you need to do this is because the solutions can become saturated and will simply stop gassing. You may think it’s complete but it’s not.


Pool automation can be a great addition for your pool. Want to turn your spa and heater on from the 18th green so it’s nice and hot when you get home? Automation can do that. Have guests staying while you’re away and want to help them turn the lights on or off, or get the spa running for them? Automation does that. Want to check on your pool while you’re up north? No problem, log on and see what your pool is doing. Or, just don’t like to walk out to your equipment late at night to set the spa up? Automation.

With automation you can operate all (or nearly all) of your pool components. Moreover, you can change pump speeds (if variable speed equipped), adjust your salt generator production rate or turn any feature on or off remotely. Don’t need web connect? No problem, there are many systems designed to operate your pool via wired automation.

Also, with automation, you can program little-used pool equipment to run for a few minutes each week in order to keep it operational. Pumps, valves and heaters that sit stagnant for months on end are best managed by allowing them to run at least 5-10 minutes every week. Automation does that easily, saving you potentially hundreds of repair dollars.

If you install automation, look into protecting it with a surge protector. Even if you have one on your home it may not protect against outside electronics like your automation system.

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